A meandering post for a meandering walk
The walk was to begin at 16:30 hours from a place called Ballard Bunder Museum. Even the most grizzled taxi driver gave me a blank look when pressed for directions. In true naval tradition, only the population in white is likely to give a knowledgeable answer here – the museum was closed to the general public at this time (security reasons stated). This is where our interesting, exhilarating and most informative journey begins…
The Museum – we start
The Ballard Bunder was constructed in 1920 by George Wittet (4 years before he built the Gateway of India; in fact, it is meant to have been a prototype for the Gateway). This insignificant looking entrance was once the main entry into Bombay city for those getting off the steam boats on the Pier. It is said that the people got off at Ballard Pier and walked into the “Frontier Mail” waiting a few steps away to take them all the way to places like Peshawar. This rail track is now used by the Navy for transportation purposes, as per the word of the guys in white, as it’s off bounds for us civilians.
The Ballard Bunder Museum found its present glory only around 2004. Once, more magnificent structures like the Lion Gate came into use, our small edifice lost its prominence and suddenly one fine day found itself used as a scrap yard Thankfully, some naval officers along with Mrs.Coonawalla restored it as a museum which now houses photographs of Bombay as it was earlier, some naval diving gear and models of different types of boats, a miniature replica of HMS Trincomallee and some original bowheads.
Back to the walk
Right across the Ballard Bunder is a simple, yet impressive War memorial. Located bang in the centre of the busy road, this Memorial is dedicated to the soldiers who fought in WWI and is made in a prominently neo-classical style with its single Doric column.
At one end of the war memorial, behind the ordinarily named Darabshaw House is the story of the erstwhile Regent Hotel. To understand why it is significant you’ll have to walk down to the graceful Grant Hotel. Built by Wittet himself, the structure was ‘the’ place for the rich and famous to be lodged at. If in the 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s you were not that rich and famous, you’d have booked yourself in the Regent. And of course, the way to the Grant is strewn with very many such graceful structures which demand at least a moment’s notice if not more.
Bombay’s Irani heritage
If it’s lunch time, on the way to the Grant hotel you can stop off at “Britannia Café” one of the oldest Irani cafe’s in Mumbai – the only place in town that serves the famous Berry Pulav (made from berries specially imported from Iran.)
A revealing moment
Our paths led us to a road where one story ended and another began. On one side of the road are buildings in grey blue, while on the other they have a yellow tinge. The jetty side was constructed earlier and its blue stones came from the Malad quarry – not initially a part of the planned Ballard Estate. The planned part was constructed later as Ballard Estate from the yellow Kurla quarry basalt stones.
As a part of the walk we also stopped to hear a little about the history of Bharat Petroleum (BP) which was earlier Burma Shell.
History hidden within a building – Neville House
Right opposite the BP building is Neville House belonging to the Wadia’s of Bombay Dyeing fame. It was a revelation to us that the Wadias were asked to move to Mumbai from Surat as they were expert ship builders. Bombay was famous for building ships which were used by the British Empire .The ships were made of Malabar Teak and the craftsmanship was incomparable to any other across the world.
Bombay was once the textile hub this side of the country and it began its journey in a small room in the basement of the building which today is Neville House. An interesting tale goes that one of the Wadia scions was sent to England to learn how ships were made using steel (iron), a new technological development in those days. This vegetarian Wadia could not deal with the harshness of the English seamen, and found it difficult to create a rapport with this meat eating populace. Almost giving up, he found the flourishing commercial textile industry of England more to his taste. Cotton being available in plenty in India, he successfully implemented the new techniques, started Bombay dyeing and the rest, as they say, is history!
Some more stops along the road…
Our last stop on the heritage walk was the Bombay Port Trust - the spacious chambers of the Chief Engineer were a revelation in an otherwise space starved city. The furniture there, according to our guide, is still the original British pieces. A little daunting were the walls with large framed photos of past Chief Engineers of Bombay Port Trust looking down at the trespassing visitor.
Before the Port Trust visit an interesting detour was to the Seaman’s Club which had a quiet little chapel. The lectern in the chapel was falcon shaped and beautifully and intricately carved. And it gave us serene nooks to rest our much walked feet in quiet. The place, unfortunately, is rarely used – we saw these huge book shelves filled with books which looked like they were last checked out 50 years back!
That was our historic walk… meandering, informative, exhilarating… and beautiful!
A must for anyone with even a wee bit of interest in history, general knowledge, information and of course any one who would like to “Show Off” in general!
Trivia
- Ballard Estate - The first BKC of Mumbai – 22 acres of land reclaimed specifically to build a commercial complex
- Iranians who stayed back in India were called Parsees
- Iranians in Iran are Zoroastrians!
- Even today the HMS Trincomallee is afloat on English waters. This vessel was built in Mumbai and is considered to be the oldest floating British ship in the world.
- HMS Minden – the ship used in the American Revolutionary War by the British Navy was built in Mumbai by the Wadias. It is said that the “Star Spangled Banner” was written aboard the Minden by Francis Scott Key.
- Well-known George Wittet structures: Gateway of India, Ballard Bunder Gate,
The Prince of Wales Museum and Grant Hotel
- Mumbai was well known for its ship building and textile mills which is why even today the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation’s “coat of arms” has the symbol of a factory (representing a mill) and 3 ships apart from the Gateway of India and the BMC building. The motto in Sanskrit says “Yatho Dharmasthatho Jaya”
- Outsourcing story – The coming of Wadias to Mumbai from Surat can be considered one of the oldest outsourcing stories.
Written and Edited by Supraja and Ghazala
